Stone Language !

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The subject, I hated most during my Architecture days was beyond doubt “History of Architecture”. Our smart teachers used to proudly announce before the lunch break that post lunch will comprise of “Sketching” session for the subject “History of Architecture”. That was enough for half of students to bunk the post lunch session. Rest of us filled ourselves with heavy meals just to be able to doze off in the sketching session and pretend sharpening our sets of HB, 2B pencils. A few of us blindly copied the motifs cramming the styles of Architecture and benevolent rulers who promoted the art. I managed to pass my subjects; declaring the motifs, art forms will never create any little interest in me.

Eight years down the line, I have proved myself wrong! (Life, I guess is always about challenging, changing and devastating your beliefs and replacing them by new ones!!!). It happened when I visited Sun Temple at Konark (Orissa). The poet Rabindranath Tagore wrote of Konark: "here the language of stone surpasses the language of man."

The temple takes the form of the chariot of Surya (Arka), the sun god, and is heavily decorated with stone carving. The entire complex was designed in the form of a huge chariot drawn by seven spirited horses on twelve pairs of exquisitely decorated wheels. The entrance is guarded by two lions, which are each shown crushing a war elephant. Each elephant in turn lies on top of a human body. The temple symbolises the majestic stride of the Sun god. Its all in stone, live in front of your eyes…… Most of the architects today will find it difficult to even sketch it, forget build it!

Each motif has a story, an anecdote, a story related to it….With my jaws dropped, I listened carefully to each and every word coming out of my guide’s mouth….This fellow (a local guide) toured us for one hour narrating the history, background and the significance of motifs carved in stone…..He spoke broken English in between, a skill he might have developed to cater to foreign tourists…We gave him undivided attention listening to all his details….When we left it was a great feeling…to be lucky enough to see this magnificent piece of Architecture and proud to be able to appreciate the art…

As I got back in my car, a though crossed my mind… Only if he had coached me in the college days… I hope my history teachers are not reading this….

I take off from Hyderabad airport – spacious, lavish and flamboyant and land at Bhubaneswar – small confined and claustrophobic. Bhubaneswar streets are wide open, with slow moving traffic and almost no air movement. Humidity sticks you. The slow moving traffic, low pace and a few people on the roads hardly present any attractions on my drive to the hotel…With nothing to think or see, mind games vanish and doze off…Thanks to the recent developments, the roads are carpeted finely with tar and enable a smooth ride through the city…And from no where I arrive at this huge concrete 10 floor building that represents mundane neo architecture that almost tears through the traditions of the land….This is one face of Bhubaneswar – like any other small time urban towns…

The next day, I take out my map and draw a travel route through the city…As I drive, I discover a different face of the city – narrow streets….lush green….temple complexes sprung up every 200 mts....Shikhars reaching for the sky….

I choose to share through my pictures…Fortunately the beauty does not require any description and talks for itself…Surprisingly it fails to inspire the modern architects / builders of the city… To a passer by the place and its ornate architecture is full of inspiration and joy!